HTP: Sicaran Battle Tank.

Most of the tank is painted the exact same as my standard imperial fists. However I wanted to save what metals I used on the accelerator auto cannons.

The metals are done with Leadbelcher followed by Runelord brass on parts of the armor. Once dry I washed this with Seraphim Sepia.

For the rounds in the chamber itself I used Gehenna's Gold. This one took two coats to get a good coverage. Afterwards I washed it with Agrax.

HTP: JSA

Not show, the samurai pants are painted with burnt red, and washed with nuln oil. I then painted them again with burnt red.

Start with vallejo gray surface primer on the entire model, followed by white from above. Once dry, I used the Nuln Oil Gloss to hit only the cracks of the armor and shade the model. I painted the accents of the model with Squid Pink, and started with a green base.

We're going to cover skin quickly.

The Ratio's aren't quite a science. However adding Vallejloo Game Color 72.042 Parasite Brown to a mix of Game Color 72.100 rosy flesh made a very nice base for an oriental skin tone. Using my wet pallet to keep the paint nice and dry I covered the face with about 2 coats and then washed with Citadel Reikland FleshShade.  I covered the face a bit more on the raised areas with the base color. Finishing with a final  highlight of Game Color 72.003 Pale Flesh added to the base color.

Whenever i'm painting skin I make sure to use a wet palette. Last thing you need is the paint starting to dry before you're finished glazing the color on.

(related note: I paint the eyes after the skin. I know a lot of artists prefer to paint them first because they're difficult but with the kolinsky hair brushes I haven't had much issue.)

For weapons or anything that was meant to be black, paint with MC Dark Grey. For the metals I used Leadbealcher.

Wash the Dark Grey and Lead Belcher with Nuln Oil.

Highlight the Dark Grey with Neutral Grey.

Highlight again with Ghost Grey.

The glow affect starts with a glaze of MC Blue Green.

It's continued by adding white to the paint and adding it to a smaller area.

The bases are painted with MC Refractive Green, Dark Grey, and Leadbelcher.

 To Brighten the bases I went over them again with GC Sick Green.

Highlighting the green with GC Escorpena Green. I also highlighted the Silver with Stormcast Silver from GW.

For the OSL I simply airbrushed Game Air Ultramarine Blue, and added a drop of blue to white and made a glow.

HTP: Imperial Fist Apothecaries

For my Apothecaries I wanted them to be a warm white so they wouldn't clash with the yellows of the army.

I started by painting them the same way as I painted the rest of my imperial fists. I then masked the shoulder pads with liquid frisket film topped with liquid latex.

The base would be a bone tan. Airbrush the entire model with Minitaire D6-159 Rotten Wood.

Any white will do. I airbrushed form a downward angle across the model to keep some tan in the shades but helping unify the armor in white.

The heads are glued to paint handles to prevent the weathering powder from pooling around the helmet where I can't get it. Also helps with painting details on the helmets. At this step I remove the liquid mask to reveal the yellow.  Not Shown, apply decals at this step. 

Once the decals are applied, softened, and sealed, I coat the entire model with weathering powder. After it has dried I use a cotton swab to remove the excess powder and shade the miniature. it's critical you do this as soon as it's completely dry.

For the metals I used Lead Belcher as a base, painted over it with Runelord Brass, and finished with Seraphim Sepia.

For the scroll work I simply painted them with Deck Tan,

For the seals I painted them in flat red.

Paint both the seals and the tapestry in Agrax, Once dry go back over them with deck tan and flat red to highlight.

The little apothecary symbol is painted in flat red. His vial is painted with Blue Green and washed with nuln oil.

After the nuln oil dries paint another layer of Blue Green, then mix white to add a highlight.

The blacks are done in the same way as the rest of the army. base black, London grey, sky grey.

The power swords are painted with the same colors as the plasma guns.

HTP: Stone Bases

For my Imperial Fist bases I wanted them to have a classic stone look while using the my airbrush and drybrushing to create the illusion of a shadow on the base.

Bases Used:
Ruined Temple, https://goo.gl/zTzCZG 
Urban Streets, https://goo.gl/y4tNkv

Start off with priming the bases black.  Then airbrush the entire base with Minitaire D6-110 Charred Stone

Follow this up with D6-108 Rock in a circle on the outside of the base. this will leave a shadow where the model is.

Wash the entire base with Nuln Oil to bring out the detail, and shade the rock.

Dry brush with Model Color  70.989 Sky Grey. For this step I used a large flat square brush and mostly dry brushed with the sides of the brush. I either avoided, or lightly dry-brushed the middle of the base to preserve the shadow.

Paint the lines with a solid coat of Model Color 70.986 Deck Tan. I didn't dillute this at all so I would have an even coat.

Finishing off the stone I applied a very liberal amount of Agrax Earthshade to the tan. When applying I attempted to make the wash pool in the middle of the base more than on the edges to help preserve the shadow. Paint the edges black and you're done.

HTP: Undead Kings

For most of this you use the color schemes from http://3aplays.blogspot.com/2017/11/htp-black-knights.html

The difference here is the fabric. I wanted to go for a red and white theme for this army after seeing my Black Knights finished.

Start with Deck Tan on the fabric.

Wash the fabric with Seraphim Sepia to set it apart from the agrax and the bone.

final step is to paint on the ivory in a sketchy way. You don't want full glazes. I would draw on a crosshatch patter to get a feel for where the fabric would be highlighted and then go on with a larger brush stroke and paint the main highlight.

And two hero's done! The high lord King, and his first captain of the guard.

HTP: Black Knights

The black knights where a lot of fun. There's detail I didn't notice at first but ended up bringing a lot of character to the finished models. While I wish the tendons and muscle on the skulls and neck wasn't on, the rest of the kit was amazing. 

I rattle canned them black, and started the bones with burnt umber. 

70.986 Deck Tan is applied to completely cover all the bones.

Citadel Agrax Earthshade goes over all the bone to shade it.

Final step for the bone is to drybrush with Deck Tan

To block out the rest of the colors I went over it again with black. For other knights I delayed this step till when I started painting the fabric. Once the metal is painted you'll need to clean up again anyway.

For any armor and weapon blades I went over with Citadel Lead Belcher.

Because undead always wear Brass I then went over the armor with Runelord Brass. I feel it's very fitting.

The reds of any fabric, and the reigns are done with Burnt Red, and the Vines were started with Brown Violet.

For the saddle I phoned it in and used Burnt Umber.

Now that all the colors are blocked out I went over everything except the bone with Nuln Oil.

To represent the wear on the brass I hit the edges of the armor, and the parts that showed battle damage and decay with Lead Belcher again.

Highlights! for the black I highlighted Dark Grey, for the red I basically painted on glazes of flat red to build up saturation. Finally I used pure Flat Green to paint the vines. 

Fun part, I used Nhiklakh Oxide to weather the brass. use this very sparingly.

The shields simple. You can't see the inside, so I simply painted it Burnt Umber and washed it with Nuln Oil.

For the muscle tissue I started again with Burnt Red. 

To shade I washed with Nuln Oil

I went back over the muscle with Burnt Red.

Finally I highlighted by mixing Burnt Red with White. This makes it look distinct from the red of the fabric and gives it a sinew look.

The mixed highlight on my pallet.

For the banners I went over the outside fabric with Sky Grey, for the bones I went over with Deck Tan.

Deep Yellow took two coats. It's more of a glaze, but it works. I went over the crowns and the frills on the edges.

I washed the yellow with two coats of Seraphim Sepia, I went over the bone with Agrax.

Final step for the banners is to go over the bone again with Deck Tan. This looks brighter than the bone of the soldiers because it's brushed on instead of dry brush.

And BAM, you're done!