Start with vallejo gray surface primer on the entire model, followed by white from above. Once dry, I used the Nuln Oil Gloss to hit only the cracks of the armor and shade the model. I painted the accents of the model with Squid Pink, and started with a green base.
We're going to cover skin quickly.
The Ratio's aren't quite a science. However adding Vallejloo Game Color 72.042 Parasite Brown to a mix of Game Color 72.100 rosy flesh made a very nice base for an oriental skin tone. Using my wet pallet to keep the paint nice and dry I covered the face with about 2 coats and then washed with Citadel Reikland FleshShade. I covered the face a bit more on the raised areas with the base color. Finishing with a final highlight of Game Color 72.003 Pale Flesh added to the base color.
Whenever i'm painting skin I make sure to use a wet palette. Last thing you need is the paint starting to dry before you're finished glazing the color on.
(related note: I paint the eyes after the skin. I know a lot of artists prefer to paint them first because they're difficult but with the kolinsky hair brushes I haven't had much issue.)
For weapons or anything that was meant to be black, paint with MC Dark Grey. For the metals I used Leadbealcher.
Wash the Dark Grey and Lead Belcher with Nuln Oil.
Highlight the Dark Grey with Neutral Grey.
Highlight again with Ghost Grey.
The glow affect starts with a glaze of MC Blue Green.
It's continued by adding white to the paint and adding it to a smaller area.
The bases are painted with MC Refractive Green, Dark Grey, and Leadbelcher.
Highlighting the green with GC Escorpena Green. I also highlighted the Silver with Stormcast Silver from GW.
For the OSL I simply airbrushed Game Air Ultramarine Blue, and added a drop of blue to white and made a glow.
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